water buffalo

All activity slows down in the afternoon heat. People and animals take to the shade. We could stay here on the deck for hours mesmerized by the landscape and the animal activity around the watering hole. There are literally hundreds of different animals right before our eyes. Amazing.

Once it cools off a little, we’ll be heading out into the bush on a game drive to get a closer look.

Our trusty driver/guide Newton is ready to take us on our first game drive. There will be 4 of us today for a small driver to guest ratio (1:4)  You have to climb up and into these open air safari vehicles. I am tall so this is fairly easy for me. But Newton has  a step stool handy just in case you need a boost. Each of us has a “window” seat with a full view. No one is sandwiched in a middle seat.

Incidentally, the other guests have their own driver/guides. A single traveler who had specifically requested and paid for  a private tour (1:1) and one honeymoon couple (1:2) had separate tours. This is a luxury safari camp. We were not expected to pile into one vehicle with 6 or 8 people (1:6 or 1:8 or more). This is not necessarily the case with all camps and lodges.

We are following in the footsteps of great explorers, adventurers, frontiersmen, writers, photographers, even royalty and there is no telling what we will see this afternoon. It’s completely unscripted and unpredictable. Fortunately, our trained and experienced guide knows where to take us for the best sightings and he has wealth of knowledge to share with us.

I’m going to stop “talking” now. Enjoy the view. More wildlife tomorrow.

Reticulated Giraffe

African Elephant

Grevy's Zebra

If you pad out quietly, you won’t startle and scare off the wildlife grazing around the edge of the veranda. Several small gazelle, now aware that we are out here, eye us carefully but continue to munch on the grass.

veranda with a view

It’s so still and quiet here.

The camp has been purposely built into the environment. There is no physical barrier – solid wall or high fence – to keep animals out and humans in. Each morning, you can see evidence that larger animals, even elephants, have walked around your tent. If you are a light sleeper, you might have even heard them roaming through.

Photo Courtesy of Joy's Camp

Let’s walk up to the public areas for lunch. I spy a swimming pool. That would be the watering hole for the people.
You just knew I would find the water.
The main pavillion is in the background on the right.

While we wait for the other guests, we can take a front row seat and watch the animals moving about at their watering hole in the distance.

pavillion viewing deck

 The camp is full board which means that all meals and beverages are included. We will enjoy morning and afternoon tea and evening cocktails at the open bar. Bottled water and soft drinks will be provided as well.

 A delicious and leisurely lunch will be served shortly in the open air dining area just to the left of us. Afterwards, we have some free time to relax or enjoy that pool before the afternoon game drive with our driver guide.

There are no restaurants in the wild. You are relying on the camp for your daily needs. Therefore, the quality and variety of the cuisine becomes very important. I should have guessed that the owners are Italian from the design elements and the refined menus. No hot dogs by the camp fire here.

The bush pilot climbed back into the cockpit, fired up the engine, turned and taxied and took off with a buzz. He had a schedule to maintain.

Meanwhile, Newton had placed our bags in the open air vehicle. We drove a short distance to the camp and then he walked us up to the reception area.

 
I have done hundreds of inspections of hotels/resorts, tour companies and cruise ships. Since I know that reality doesn’t always match the 2 dimensional brochure or website photos and descriptions, I try to reserve my judgement past the first impressions.

reception area 

Joy’s Camp is a luxury tented safari camp in the Shaba National reserve. Each guest is escorted to their accommodations by their personal butler who explains the features therein. He will also bring your morning tea  and biscuits (or coffee or hot chocolate) at your prefered time before the early morning game drive. Oh, I already liked this place.

There are 10 spacious and elegant individual units set on raised platforms. Each is constructed with heavy canvas and decorated with bedouin-somali cloth and glasswork details. The modern bathroom facilities include hot and cold running water, a shower and flush toilet. We’re definitely not roughing it. On the contrary, we will be very comfortable and very well taken care of for the next day and a half.

interior view 

Joy’s Camp was built on conservationist Joy Adamson’s original campsite. Some of you may be old enough to remember the 1966 academy award-winning movie and same titled theme song based on her book Born Free. The novel chronicled Joy & George Adamson’s personal experiences in Kenya raising 3 orphaned lion cubs. Hence the name and the significance.

The true adventure is just beginning. On our way up to lunch, let’s explore a little more.
Now I just have to check out the private veranda and the view. Come with me.

A mere 24 hours after arrival, we were heading out to the Wilson Airport to make a short domestic flight. I had no interest in the crowded, congested capital city. We had big game to track out in the wild. Everything that had been “lost” had been found. I was ready to go. How about you?

First, I had to check out of the hotel.
My bed and breakfast stay had been prepaid but I had signed other meals and services (internet) to my room. I watched as the front desk clerk dialed the credit card company. (waiting on hold) He needed an authorization code for my account and the transaction amount. (waiting on hold again) A line was beginning to form behind me. Then he produced a metal plate from beneath the counter. He pressed down to imprint my card through several carbon copies. Next, he filled in my total in Kenyan shillings and handed me the forms.

We were in a time warp. I hadn’t seen this procedure in years. No electronic card reader to swipe. No instant approval. No keypad to sign. The system wasn’t “down”. This was business as usual here.

I remembered that carbons had been a security problem.  I didn’t want to return home to bogus charges or have my card denied while traveling due to suspected fraud. I asked that the carbons be removed and torn up. 

OK, I was done. Your turn.

For small amounts, I suggest you pay with cash. It would be faster and easier. I went through this a second time. By the third time, I would be taking my own advice.

Safari Link offers convenient flights all over the country. Much faster and more pleasant than bumping along on dusty roads for hours. We walked out to a  small 15 passenger bush plane and climbed aboard. Just 1 pilot, 3 other passengers, you and me.

An hour later, we circled Chaffa Airstrip once due to animals on the landing field before touching down on basically a flattened piece of land.
We were out in the open. No building or structure. Just a windsock.

And Newton waiting for us with a 4WD vehicle. (See Day 1 /Nov 2).

I said a little prayer as I walked back to the meet and greet line. About 5 people in from the end, there stood Patrick my driver! “Where have you been?” we both chorused.
He had been waiting for me since 6am. After an hour and a half, thinking I had perhaps missed the flight, he went to double check. Good thing he came back one more time. Hallelujah, I had been found!

I was grateful to have my prearranged transfer to an oasis in the city. No, I wasn’t staying at a standardized, international chain hotel like the Inter-Continental. Kenya has many wonderful small, intimate places with personality. As we drove from the airport, through now thick rush hour traffic, he told me the company owner would meet with me at 4pm.

The Fairview Hotel is a charming family-owned country hotel set in 5 acres of beautiful gardens within the city center. However, I was surprised that we had to pass through several check points with armed guards and finally a security gate to get into the hotel grounds. I inquired about this. We were near the Israeli Embassy which required a constant and high level of anti-terrorism protection.

I settled into my room. I was finally in Kenya.
After I freshened up, I went to the business center to send my husband a quick e-mail.
“Arrived safely. All’s well.” I needed him to be reassured, not worried about me long distance. I checked my e-mail for anything urgent. This might be my last connection until I returned in  a week.

I explored the property, finding the well-quipped fitness center and an invitingly lovely swimming pool at the back. All the wings were gated with key card access. More internal security.

I knew this was a business hotel, not a tourist hotel. I noticed a business conference in one of the meeting rooms and the restaurants filling with local business people at lunch time. It was obviously a popular little place.

I needed to rest and relax and think about what to do. My meeting with the safari company owner was crucial. I now had a question about the reliabilty of the company I was involved with.

And yet, here I was, in this well-chosen oasis in the city. Someone definitely had expertise and refined sensibilities.  A delightful surprise.
This was NOT one of the usual recommendations for visitors to Nairobi.

Note: professional photos courtesy of Fairview Hotel, Nairobi, Kenya.

I decided to stay put and wait. Tick, tock. 10 minutes went by.  Tick, tock. 15 minutes never seemed so long. Tick, tock. 20 minutes and still no driver.

That’s when my brain went into a screaming panic.
Had I mentioned that I was traveling solo? I was on the other side of the planet, in a country I had never visited before, where I knew exactly no one. I was ALL ALONE, without the comfort of group or even a travel companion.
Now I questioned the wisdom of my decision and my singlemindedness.
I allowed this brief, silent meltdown in my head. And then I had to get a grip.

Plan B: I would have to find my own way to the hotel.
From my spot outside baggage claim, I scanned the lobby. Aha, there were hotel desks. I walked over and found one that listed my hotel. There was young woman behind the desk.

Me: I have a reservation at the (blah-blah) hotel. I cannot find my driver.
Do you know (so-and-so) from (such-and-such) safari company?
She: No.
Me: Do you have a transfer service?
She: No.
Well, this wasn’t helpful at all.  I stood there, thinking. It was still before 8am, too early to call the company office.
She: See if you can find him one more time. If not, we will get you a safe taxi.
She said “safe”. I knew what that meant. Someone they knew who would get me there safely. I had advised female travelers on personal security for years. I wasn’t about to get into a car with a complete stranger. If I disappeared between the airport and the hotel, it was possible no one I knew would ever see me again.

Would I ever get to the East Coast and the Indian Ocean?

I had brought the bare minimum with me – less than 33 lbs/15 kg of clothes with a few toiletries in a small soft-sided bag that could be smooshed into a small cargo compartment on a small plane. 

Since this was a structured business trip and not a leisurely vacation, I would be leaving for the bush the next morning, spending only a night or two in each location. I knew my bag would never catch up with me. If it turned up, it would have to wait for me to return to Nairobi at the end of the week to claim it.

Plan B: My driver would have to take me shopping this afternoon. Some companies do provide a “shopping opportunity” after arrival so you can get completely outfitted before you head out. 
This wasn’t  a true disaster but it was irritatingly inconvenient. And I really didn’t want to buy a second set of new clothing. I already had perfectly nice clothes in my size in my tote bag.

Then, I could see the last batch of luggage approaching, snaking its way around the carousal. I crossed my fingers. Finally, I spied my little bag and breathed a sigh of deep relief.
Now to exit customs and find my driver Patrick.

Where’s my driver?
It was now an hour and a half after arrival. I stepped out to a sea of greeters holding paging boards with names. As I walked down the line, I recognized the names of about a dozen safari companies that I had considered. I didn’t see mine. I walked back a second time. I waited  a few minutes and slowly paced the length again, reading each sign carefully.

No, my driver simply wasn’t there. I was stranded at the airport.
Was I ever going to get out to the countryside, to the good stuff?

So, I was really going. It was only a week away.
I knew about the wildlife. I started to think about the people – who I would meet along the way – local residents and other travelers. I planned to visit a Masai village but didn’t know what to expect.
I also wondered about the owner of the safari company. 

My flight arrived at Jomo Kenyatta international airport in Nairobi, Kenya at 6am. I sailed through the shorter immigration line for travelers with pre-issued visas and proceeded downstairs to the baggage claim area.

We waited and waited. And waited. All the passengers were now assembled around the carousal. We waited. We waited some more.

 The baggage had to be manually removed one at a time, loaded onto luggage carts one at a time, driven from the plane to the terminal and placed on the belt one at a time. A very labor-intensive  and time-consuming process. We had arrived on a modern aircraft at a less than modern airport. Finally, the conveyor belt started to roll forward slowly.  Individual pieces of luggage began to appear and make their way around.

Where’s my luggage?
It was now more than an hour after we landed. As I stood there patiently watching others pull their belongings off, it occurred to me that I didn’t know for certain that my small tote bag had made it onto the first flight or that it got transferred successfully from the first international airline to the second partner airline.

I glanced over at the long line of passengers from a previous flight at the airline baggage counter. That didn’t look encouraging. I had lost luggage before. I knew the procedure. Fill out the paperwork and hope that an airline emlpoyee sees your bag and sends it on its way to you.

The problem was tomorrow’s flight would be too late.
To be continued . . .

I still had those alluring safari images in my head. And they kept me going.

I have always worked with South Pacific travel companies that had a U.S. office as  a main point of contact. There are Africa safari and adventure companies based in the U.S. but hundreds more based solely in Kenya. I used an aproved list from the Kenya Tourist Board to narrow down my choices. I found one company that stood out from the rest with unique locations and offerings. However, they would not accept credit cards long distance and insisted on a wire transfer.

Normally, this is a fast and easy direct business transaction. I had done it before to the South Pacific, money transferred electronically from my one bank account to another, almost instantaneously. But this time didn’t go smoothly at all.

Where’s my money?
E-mails flew back and forth for 2 anxiety-filled weeks as thousands of dollars of my money were “lost in transit”.  My bank in California and their intermediary bank in New York confirmed the transfer but their bank in Nairobi would NOT. I initiated a trace without a response. At this point, my bank manager expressed some concern. I had some growing trepidation as well. She told me that sometimes funds are frozen due to suspected illegal activity. Believe me, it wasn’t enough money to constitute a drug deal.

I had a true dilemma. I was holding a very expensive, non-refundable airline ticket but my land arrangements were technically not paid or confirmed. Should I go, should I postpone, should I cancel?

I enlisted the help of the company owner and asked him to check the trace in reverse with their Nairobi bank. Lo and behold, a week before departure, I had verification. The money had been there all along. I never did get a complete explanation of what had happened but I was told that the banking system is a little archaic.

I was just finding out about local money transactions. There would be more lessons to come in the next week.

I now use a U.S. company with payments made by credit card and live people I can talk to who know exactly where the money is.
I’m not playing hide and seek again with my money or anyone else’s.

I have become accustomed to taking a single overnight flight from Los Angeles to just about anywhere in the South Pacific – Tahiti, Fiji, the Cooks, Auckland or Sydney – with an airline ticket, a valid passport and a single suitcase.  Aside from a couple of credit cards, an ATM card and a small amount of cash money – that’s all.

Of course, I had done some general research for Kenya but it soon became apparent that traveling there was going to be more complicated. As the advance scout on these inspection trips, I discover all the potential pitfalls firsthand.

First, I would need a visa which involved sending my passport, application, photos and fees to the nearest Kenyan Embassy. Upon arrival, I discovered that it is also possible to have it issued at the airport – strictly with cash in hand, no checks, no credit cards. Not the time and place to come up short.

Then I had to have the appropriate and current travel immunizations for the region. This entailed shots in both arms and a prescription for anti-malaria pills. I left the travel clinic with my new bright yellow International Certificate of Vaccination signed and stamped accordingly.

Next, I had to purchase the proper clothing and fit it all into one small tote bag. This is due to the extreme weight limitation for domestic flights on small bush planes. Do yourself a favor, don’t even think about dragging along a full size, hard shell Samsonite, just because you can on the international flights.

Finally, I learned that two overnight international flights would be required from Los Angeles – one to London in Europe and one on to Nairobi in Africa. Yes, this involves travel through 3 continents. Remember, it is the other side of the world.

All of this just to get there. I really have become spoiled.
It felt like I was preparing for a major expedition.

I had to remind myself of the reasons for going and the experiences waiting for me.
I was still determined to go. That’s when the true challenges emerged.