Wildlife photographer, Lisa Asch and wildlife artist, Peter Blackwell, both long time friends of professional hunter and filmmaker Alex Walker, radioed our driver with the location of a family of cheetahs.

Our driver was very skilled at knowing how to get just close enough to staidfy the humans but not too close to disturb the wildlife. Time always seemed to stand still when we were observing wildlife. We could just sit there for hours. But another driver called to respectfully request a turn for his guests and we quietly retreated, grateful for the rare opportunity.

We did pass other safari vehicles from the numerous other camps in the  Masai Mara but we never felt crowded. In some national parks in Africa, animals get completely surounded by vehicles, including mini buses and I have even heard, full size buses. We didn’t see this type of mass tourism and frankly, it would have ruined the experience.

Our driver/guide had tried for two days to find a leopard but it proved elusive on this trip as did the rhino. I would just have to come back.

We sat perfectly still. Not a sound except for the clicking of cameras. We all held our breath as the loiness loped casually in our direction. She walked from right to left directly in front of our 4×4 vehicle.

I had a sudden random thought.  We were only a few feet away. I wondered if she eaten recently or if she would suddenly leap at one of us. A single quick graceful pounce is all it would have required.
Fortunately, we were together in a group, not out here solo. Safety in numbers, I like to think.

She continued on her way, not taking any interest in us. We remembered to breathe again.

Our driver knew the location of 2 lionesses with several young cubs. We sat only yards away watching these energetic little bundles of fur playfully tumbling over rocks, each other and their mothers for well over an hour. Another delightful surprise. We reluctantly left when the light was completely lost.

Do you see one mother sitting behind the rocks?
Hint: look for the back of her head between the cubs.

We find ourselves at a distinctively different type of tented accommodation here at Serian Camp in the Maasai Mara region. This is a seasonal wilderness camp with a much more rugged and rustic and masculine feeling since it was designed by owner, Alex Walker, big game hunter turned conservationist.

Eight marquee-style tents are spaced well apart and tucked into the vegetation along the banks of the Mara River. Each is constructed on a raised platform with hardwood poles and heavy canvas. Furniture is minimal with a bed, a clothing cupboard and  small desk inside and directors chairs outside on the veranda.

You have to unzip the entrance, step out through the opening and go traipsing along the deck with your flashlight or solar lantern to your facilities at night. The open-air bathroom is to one side with a shower and flush toilet plus the luxury of a long and deep bathtub.  The acting manager offered 2 personal recommendations: drawing a hot bubble bath and watching the sun rise while sipping your morning (wake up call) hot chocolate.

There are 3 new larger units with interior bath on the opposite side of the river accessed by a suspension bridge. These tents are on the river bank at ground level, only a few yards from the resident hippos in the water looking back at YOU!

You will hear them grunting loudly, especially at night when they come lumbering up onto the banks. This presents one of the few real dangers. It’s important to know NOT to take a stroll around the  grounds without your personal Maasai guard who is posted outside at all times. Since my tent was isolated at the end of a long dirt path, I accepted the escort to and from the main lodge.

Later, when I returned from dinner and slipped underneath the covers, I discovered that someone had thoughtfully placed a hot water bottle between the sheets. I found it cozy and comforting considering there is no electricity and no heat in these units.

I awoke several times during the night and listened to the animal noises outside in the darkness.

I was still getting over my severe disappointment from yesterday. I had anticipated the visit to a Maasai village for weeks and it had fallen short of the accounts I had read. I asked the managers at the Serian Camp more about it after we returned. The village had been chosen based on proximity, not the quality of the experience.

Today’s visit to the regional Maasai school would prove to be completely different and a delightful surprise. It would turn out to be the true highlight of the entire trip!

We would be delivering a donation of school supplies to the principal to distribute in turn to the staff. I had imagined that we would drop off the gift and continue on our way. But he proudly insisted that we tour the school, visiting the classrooms and students who would ultimately receive those items.

We were graciously ushered in and formally introduced room by room to the teachers and their students who all understood English. (In case you hadn’t already figured it out from previous references, this is another vestige of British colonialism). They inquired about where we had come from. It hadn’t occurred to me that we would be interesting to them as foreign visitors.

I was startled to see approximately 100 uniformed first and second graders squeezed 3 or 4 to a desk in one room with 2 teachers. They giggled with delight as I took their photos and showed them the digital images. I thought about these little tykes walking, often barefoot, several miles each day to and from school from their villages. They could easily encounter animals much larger than they were.

Global philanthropy has become a very important concept in world travel. There are opportunities to connect with people in more personal and meaningful ways through participation in community projects, school donations and conservation efforts in many countries today. Volunteer vacations are another increasingly popular way to travel and make a contribution.

Another time-saving flight and we are landing at the Wilson airstrip in the Maasai Mara Game Reserve to the southwest.

The Maasai Mara offers the greatest concentration and diversity of wildlife in Kenya. But first, let’s sidetrack for a cultural safari. The local Maasai are a handsome people – tall, slender and elegant. They are known for their distinctive woven red fabrics and elaborate beaded jewelry. Their beautiful ebony skin and brightly colored attire contrast sharply with the dusky earth tones of the surrounding savannah.

It is possible to visit a Maasai village or manyatta with a guide contingent on the permission of the chief. The settlement is comprised of a circle of rounded huts made from a framework of sticks packed with dung.  These are low structures with several small unadorned rooms inside for family members and perhaps a small calf.

Women from the tribe welcome visitors with song. Next,  young men demonstrate their strength and agility with a jumping ritual. The Maasai are traditionally herdsmen with cattle being their source of food, status and wealth. The cattle are brought into the center at night to protect them from predators.

Outside the compound, another circle has been set up with a huge assortment of handicrafts displayed on hand woven cloths: intricately beaded bracelets and necklaces,  hand woven siskal baskets, wood carvings of indigenous animals. 

I hope you brought some cash with you today. Remember the economy here operates on cash, not credit. Greenbacks are most welcome as are European currencies. But be sure to inquire about the prices before you scoop up an armful of souvenirs and gifts. I witnessed one traveler make this mistake. She had a severe case of sticker shock when the total came to over $200 U.S.!  That’s two hundred, not twenty. These were very expensive trinkets. An interesting negotiation ensued.

My impression is that this particular village has become accustomed to a steady stream of foreigners. One of the chief’s sons gave us a rather cursory tour and answered our questions but quickly led us to the shopping opportunity. I know that cash flow has far reaching benefits for local residents in these areas. However, this village seemed a little jaded from perhaps too much superficial contact.

6 a.m. The day is just waking. It is still and quiet and calm. The warm rays of the African sun welcome you into another day of safari adventure. I hear  a soft knocking. The butler with morning tea, as promised.

As soon as we’re ready, it’s off into the bush for an early morning game run in the crisp, cool air. A light jacket or sweater is needed now but it will be quickly discarded as the day progresses. The dew is quickly disappearing as we depart in search of wildlife. Herds of zebra and families of lanky giraffe, our  familiar friends from yesterday. Animals are converging on the waterhole and predators are already on the prowl.

I should also mention that several other types of touring are available. A game drive is conducted with open-top vehicular transport. A bush walk is on foot at ground level and a very different pace. You can view flora and fauna at your leisure but you must have an armed guide with you for safety. You may also elect to go on a horse or camel safari. (I will discuss elephant trekking with the smaller Asian elephant next month in Thailand). For a panoramic aerial view of this spectacular terrain, a balloon safari can be arranged.

Driving back to the camp, we suddenly turn and find ourselves at the river bank where a surprise awaits us – the staff has set up tables and chairs and brought a hearty English breakfast out to us. We have  a full selection of  fresh fruit and juices, hot beverages, eggs to order, breakfast meats, toast with jams, pancakes, basically anything we could desire has been transported out to the bush for our al fresco breakfast. And there’s plenty of time to enjoy the view, the meal and the company.

We will also have another game drive this afternoon. Tomorrow, it is time to leave and journey on to the next location. I wish I had just one more day here.

I was promptly scolded by both resident managers for walking up to the central pavillion alone this evening. It’s true, I wouldn’t have known what to do if I had crossed paths with a wild animal. Stand still. Back up. Certainly not run and invite a chase.

Anyway, we’re here now and the open bar is open for sunset cocktails called sundowners, also enjoyed in the bush at sunset. Can I get you something to drink? 
A gin and tonic for my friend and a Shweppes Black Currant for me, please.
Let’s join the other guests and the managers in the lounge.

I did learn some interesting tidbits from the managers over cocktails and dinner. The staff is from the surrounding villages and there are also semi-nomadic tribes in the area. The camp uses solar panels to collect the energy that powers the camp. Provisons are brought in on the same air service we used. The Survivor Africa tv series was filmed in the immediate vicinity (3rd season/2001). 

While we were enjoying dinner, the butlers were providing turn down service – unfurling the heavy canvas flaps and tying them down; making sure the heavy gauge zippers were zipped up tight; unrolling the canvas covers over the net windows and leaving on the small night light to welcome us back. They appeared briefly in the dining area to inquire about our wake up call and beverage requests for the next morning. We had an early game drive scheduled before breakfast.

Several people decided to adjourn to the campfire for after dinner drinks and more casual conversation.

This is all-inclusive travel at its best – relaxed and relaxing.

I wanted to be well rested and alert for tomorrow. The managers insisted that I be escorted back at the end of the evening by the night watchman. I didn’t put up any resistance.

So far, we have only seen a tiny fraction of the exotic wildlife that roams freely here. I have dozens and dozens more photos but you get the idea.

Kenya is home to more than 80 major animal species.  You can see many of these in their natural habitats in different regions of the country: the big cats – lion, leopard, cheetah; grazers – gazelle, impala, antelope, zebra; primates – colobus, vervet and golden monkeys and baboons; and of course, scavengers – jackals, hyenas and vultures to complete the food chain. The list goes on and on.

African Elephant

The Big Five – to review, lion, elephant, rhino, buffalo and leopard – were the most desired trophies amongst the old hunting clubs. Hunting is no longer permitted in the national parks and game reserves.  Endangered species such as the Black Rhino have been making a comeback due to conservation efforts.

Now we can only shoot them with a camera and it is a photographer’s dream location.

Birdwatchers have the opportunity to see some of the 1,000+ recorded bird species and 60% of all African birds here. It is not unheard of to spot up to 100 species in a single day. And Lake Nakuru is world-famous for its resident population of over 6 million flamingos.

I asked Newton to get out and stand next to this massive termite mound for a size comparison.
He hesitated for a moment. He even looked a little nervous.
After he got back in the vehicle, he told us the snakes like to lurk around the base and sometimes curl up in the holes. I would NEVER have asked him to get so close if I had known beforehand.
It was definitely above and beyond his job description.

It’s been an exciting day but I’m looking forward to returning to the creature comforts of our luxury camp – a long hot shower followed by sunset cocktails and a multi-course dinner.

Water Buffalo

All activity slows down in the afternoon heat. People and animals take to the shade. We could stay here on the deck for hours mesmerized by the landscape and the animal activity around the watering hole. There are literally hundreds of different animals right before our eyes. Amazing.

Once it cools off a little, we’ll be heading out into the bush on a game drive to get a closer look.

Our trusty driver/guide Newton is ready to take us on our first game drive. There will be 4 of us today for a small driver to guest ratio (1:4)  You have to climb up and into these open air safari vehicles. I am tall so this is fairly easy for me. But Newton has  a step stool handy just in case you need a boost. Each of us has a “window” seat with a full view. No one is sandwiched in a middle seat.

Incidentally, the other guests have their own driver/guides. A single traveler who had specifically requested and paid for  a private tour (1:1) and one honeymoon couple (1:2) had separate tours. This is a luxury safari camp. We were not expected to pile into one vehicle with 6 or 8 people (1:6 or 1:8 or more). This is not necessarily the case with all camps and lodges.

We are following in the footsteps of great explorers, adventurers, frontiersmen, writers, photographers, even royalty and there is no telling what we will see this afternoon. It’s completely unscripted and unpredictable. Fortunately, our trained and experienced guide knows where to take us for the best sightings and he has wealth of knowledge to share with us.

I’m going to stop “talking” now. Enjoy the view. More wildlife tomorrow.

Reticulated Giraffe

African Elephant

Grevy's Zebra

If you pad out quietly, you won’t startle and scare off the wildlife grazing around the edge of the veranda. Several small gazelle, now aware that we are out here, eye us carefully but continue to munch on the grass.

veranda

It’s so still and quiet here.

The camp has been purposely built into the environment. There is no physical barrier – solid wall or high fence – to keep animals out and humans in. Each morning, you can see evidence that larger animals, even elephants, have walked around your tent. If you are a light sleeper, you might have even heard them roaming through.

Photo Courtesy of Joy's Camp

Let’s walk up to the public areas for lunch. I spy a swimming pool. That would be the watering hole for the people.
You just knew I would find the water.
The main pavillion is in the background on the right.

While we wait for the other guests, we can take a front row seat and watch the animals moving about at their watering hole in the distance.

pavillion viewing deck

 The camp is full board which means that all meals and beverages are included. We will enjoy morning and afternoon tea and evening cocktails at the open bar. Bottled water and soft drinks will be provided as well.

 A delicious and leisurely lunch will be served shortly in the open air dining area just to the left of us. Afterwards, we have some free time to relax or enjoy that pool before the afternoon game drive with our driver guide.

There are no restaurants in the wild. You are relying on the camp for your daily needs. Therefore, the quality and variety of the cuisine becomes very important. I should have guessed that the owners are Italian from the design elements and the refined menus. No hot dogs by the camp fire here.